New Zealand

Climb Aoraki Mount Cook

The spectacular peaks of the Aoraki/Mount Cook region have attracted climbers from all over the world for the last 100 years and climbing Mt Cook (NZ's highest peak - 3,724 metres) is a long, physically demanding and serious challenge for experienced mountaineers. To climb successfully here requires skill, fitness, patience, and great respect for the mountains. However, the rewards are commensurate with the demands of attempting these mountains - the experience of standing on the summit New Zealand’s highest peak is a rare privilege.
Activity
Mountaineering
Location
New Zealand
Intensity
Heavy
Season
October to April
Experience
Improver
Duration
6 days
Distance
KM
Elevation
KM
Follow
Starting Point
  • The most commonly guided route is the Linda Glacier and North-East Ridge from Plateau Hut. This is a long and serious climb, usually taking 15-18 hours return. The height gain is approx. 1700 metres (5,500 ft.) from Plateau Hut.

  • The Linda Glacier is relatively low-angled. Up to the Linda Shelf there is some objective hazard from ice cliffs on Mount Silberhorn. A steady and efficient pace must be maintained to minimise the risk from ice fall.

  • To reach the Linda Shelf the “Gun Barrels” must be traversed, and on the shelf itself, the “Mini Gun Barrels” crossed. Both areas are subject to danger from falling ice debris. Steady, rapid movement is required in these places.

  • You will normally be moving together with your guide until the Linda shelf steepens. The last 50 to 100 metres is pitched climbing, on 40° to 45° ice up to the base of the Summit Rocks. We try to be at this point just after dawn.

  • The Summit Rocks are normally iced up, but can be a rock climb in mid-late summer. 3 or 4 pitches are belayed to the summit ice-cap.

  • Conditions on the ice-cap vary from soft snow-ice to solid “boiler plate” ice. This section to the summit can be time consuming, and always requires concentration and care. Usually it is only necessary to belay short sections.

  • After 8-10 hours climbing the view is indescribable, stretching for hundreds of kilometres up and down the Alps, to the Tasman Sea and Pacific Ocean.

  • The descent (by the same route) usually takes 7-10 hours. The descent requires concentration and good crampon technique down the ice-cap. Your guide will lower you through the Summit Rocks.

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