The most commonly guided routes on Malte Brun peak are variations of the West Ridge and North to NW Face.

The ascent day is a long one, usually taking 10-14 hours return from your camp site. The height gain from the high bivouac (at 2,400 metres) is 800 metres (2,640 ft.). Total vertical climbed is around 1,600 metres.

On arrival in the upper Tasman Glacier region by aircraft we either spend the first night in a hut or take our gear closer to the mountain, and establish a base camp. The first day will involve revising skills and reconnoitring the best approach with current conditions.

The day before the ascent we move into place for a high camp/bivouac near the base of the North Face, or at the top of the Bonney Glacier (around 2,400 metres) ready for an early start.

The most common approach is to take a route either up a buttress to the right hand side of the North Face, or a variation of the face. This will meet up with the West Ridge just below the iconic “Cheval” - a knife-edge ridge section, with amazing exposure and vistas.

From here there is about 200 metres more airy ridge climbing to the summit. The scene from the summit offers unsurpassed views of the Aoraki Mount Cook massif, and the lakes and grasslands of the Mackenzie District.

The descent is by the same route, abseiling the buttress. The descent requires concentration and good rope-work.

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What's Included:

• Guide and National Park fees
• Aircraft access to upper Tasman Glacier
• All meals and snacks from lunch day one, to lunch day 6
• Accommodation in Mt Cook village (if required)
• Hut fees
• Free use of a range of technical gear
• Alpine Guides Technical Manual

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What's Not Included:

• Cost of flight out - (if required).

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What to Bring:

Choose your mountain wardrobe around the time of year you visit. Mountain huts in NZ are generally not heated. Temperatures are colder at night, even during summer. If your trip involves camping out go for the warmest possible combination of clothing.

Summer Gear (November - April)

There is a wide range of temperatures through summer. Be prepared for cool, to cold temperatures during storms and at night. Choose:

• 3-season sleeping bags (rated to approx -5°C)
• 400-500 loft down jackets or synthetic insulating jackets
• Lightweight to mid-weight thermals and socks
• UV Protection is Vital

Through January and February especially bring "cooling" garments that will reflect UV. For example; glacier shirts (light colours/quick drying), legionnaire hats, scarves, and neck gaiters (e.g. "Buff").

Winter Gear (July - October)

Choose:

• Warmer down (500+ loft) and synthetic jackets
• Medium to heavy grade thermals and socks
• Warm, insulated gloves
• 4-season sleeping bags (rated to approx -12°C)

Avoid using drinking bladders and hoses during winter - they are prone to freeze even when insulated.

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